A bull elephant standing in tall grass

Timing

It is hotter than you are expecting

Which is not a reason to avoid it — but it is a reason to plan the day differently.

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Samburu through the year
PeriodConditionsGame viewingVerdict
June – OctoberDry, warm, less humidExcellent — everything concentrates on the riverThe best window
NovemberShort rains, brief stormsVery good, dramatic lightGood value and quiet
December – MarchHot and dry, punishing at middayExcellent, concentrated on waterVery good if you accept the heat
April – MayLong rainsDispersed — animals leave the riverCheapest, greenest, hardest going

On the heat, specifically

This is low-lying arid country. In January and February the middle of the day is genuinely uncomfortable, in a way that surprises people whose only Kenyan experience is the highlands or the Mara.

Camps respond by building the day around it: out at six, back by ten, out again at four. The hours between belong to a shaded veranda, a cold drink and a book.

Plan around that rather than fighting it and Samburu in February is wonderful. Fight it and you will be miserable by day two.

  • Long, loose, light-coloured clothing beats shorts here
  • A wide-brimmed hat, and more water than you think
  • A camp with good shade and, ideally, a pool
  • Accept the midday break rather than asking to drive through it

The rains

April and May bring the long rains. The country greens spectacularly and the animals disperse away from the river, which makes game viewing harder — the opposite of the dry-season concentration that makes Samburu work.

It is cheap and beautiful and it is not when we would suggest a first visit.

What about the migration?

It has nothing to do with Samburu. The wildebeest migration is a Mara–Serengeti phenomenon several hundred kilometres south. Samburu is good in the same months for an entirely unrelated reason — the dry season concentrates animals on the river.

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